Bridge to the Lower 8

Eight acres of the farmette lie across a small creek bed. Often, the creek flows swift and deep enough that crossing is impossible. The acres have been left to untended for years, so briars and fallen trees covered every inch.

After clearing and buring about two acres of the briars and fallen trees, we chose a large, fallen tree to use as the basis for a bridge. We used the Kioti tractor and heavy chains to lift the logs, slid smaller logs underneath to serve as rollers, then pushed the logs in place. We placed large, flat rocks to left the end of the logs on the high end. hb used a farm jack and large chain, hooked around the lower end of the logs, to lift each and make the bridge level. We built piers to support the logs with cinder blocks. Then, we used 6x1 inch pressure treated decking, laid across the two logs for the walkway. These also served to reinforce the logs, removing all possibility of either rolling sideways.

I built steps out of large flat rocks for easy access. Soon Sissy will have her first view of the lower 8!

Raised Herb Garden Beds

Over the holidays, we designed and built two raised beds to use as herb gardens. The local home store sells cypress boards. We used this same wood for the compost bins. It weathers well and is easy to build with. The raised beds are 5ft long x 18in wide x 9in deep. The ends are inset by 2 inches, with 2 inch pieces of cypress added on the outside for additional strength.

Behind the retaining wall of the patio is 4ft of gravel fill, used to divert water running off the hill from the house. Once the boxes were put into place, we realized they were too high. In the spring, we will sink them down until the tops are nearly level with the retaining wall.

Currently, the bottoms are lined with hardware wire. Before filling with potting soil, I plan to add a layer of landscaping fabric. This will permit water to drain through the bottom of the boxes but will also keep the soil in place.

In early March, we filled the boxes with soil, then placed the trays of peat pots and seeds inside. Covering them with plastic made perfect cold frames. I used left over wire and basic heavy plastic. The plastic on side against the wall is fixed while the fronts and sides ore loose, held in place with rocks. This permits easy access for watering and ventilation as the temperatures increase.

In late May, I planted oregano, parsley, basil and thyme in the boxes. In addition to cutting the herbs to use fresh, I hope to dry any extar to use throughout the year.

The Chicken Coop

Building the chicken coop was one of our first projects on the farmette. We had the chickies ordered and therefore a hard 3 week deadline. Some of the features I wanted was a house sized for 6-10 hens, a sturdy person door for easy maintenance, a chicken door, windows for light and ventilation and electricity. hb found these blueprints online and they were perfect. We bought our supplies one weekend and started building early on Saturday. The project took two weekends to complete, but the results were perfect! We did not run the electricity until closer to that winter but by the time the first frost occurred, the chickens water bowl was heated. As the bottom pictures show, the roost was on the right side of the coop and the laying boxes on the left. We built 5 laying boxes and put a 12 ft circular fenced area outside of the chicken door. The chickies arrived shortly after the coop was completed. I kept them inside of a wooden frame box, inside the coop with a heat lamp to warm them. Once they were grown up a bit, they had the run of the coop. I had three roosters and 9 hens, 4 each of barred rocks, silver Wyandotte and americaunas.

Chicken Coop Blueprints

The Compost Bins

The compost bins were a combination of designs we found online and our own requirements. I wanted two bins because in the spring and fall, one bin would not be enough. Also, with two bins, I could empty one into the other to promote decomposition. Some designs called for three boons which at times would be nice but took up too much room.

We built the frames from cypress, as the local home store was selling their remaining stock at rock bottom prices. The amount of cypress we purchased determined the size of the bins, which are about 45" wide. The bottoms, side and backs are all wire for circulation. For the front, we used cypress slat boards which I can add or remove depending on the situation. These are especially nice when shoveling out the finished compost from the bins.

I placed the bins near the chicken coop yet close enough to the house for easy access, especially during the cold winter months. I keep a compost container in the kitchen and all organic matter is composted. I also compost the chicken and bunny coop matter.

There are times when I consider adding a lid to bins. The chickens like to mill around in the bins, eating a lot of the material as soon as it hits the bins. I also assume they eat any worm silly enough to be close to the top, and worms are essential for good composting. In addition, raccoons and possums occasionally dine there. Lids would discourage these free meals.

Frodo's Coop and Pen

During the move to the farmette, a friend of mine kept Frodo until I could build him a proper living situation. I decided to put Frodo close to the house so I could keep an eye on him. Frodo is a fantastic alarm system. Anytime a car pulls into the driveway, or an animal (friend or foe) passes by or sometimes just when he hears a strange sound, Frodo lets out a series of very loud squawks. Over the years, he has alerted me to many a scavenging raccoon, possum or skunk.

There was an old metal, T-shaped clothes line pole cemented into the middle of the yard. After several unsuccessful times to remove this thing, I used it as the corner post for Frodo's yard. No more mowing around the thing! A large pine tree served as the second yard post, with metal fence posts completing the enclosure. I wrapped 4ft high, 3" fencing wire around the fence posts, then covered the bottom 18" with small hole wire to prevent raccoons from reaching in and grabbing Frodo.

There was a dog run from the pine tree to the side porch at just the right height to use for the roof support. I wrapped chicken wire side to side over the dog run to create the roof, attaching the chicken wire to the sides and each other with plastic cable ties. The last necessity was a person door so I could easily enter and maintain the area. hb has this fantastic tool called a biscuit cutter. I used this with pressure treated 2x4's to frame out the door, finishing it by stapling the small square wire on to the frame. A couple of hinges connecting the door to a 4x4 post and the door was functional.

To provide Frodo a place to find cover, I built him an A-frame house. Once in a while, Frodo goes inside but mostly he stays outside. Inside the enclosure, against the pine tree, I keep a large bunch of corn stalks tied upright along with a bale of straw giving Frodo a very secure wind break. There is also a small pile of cut wood that Frodo jumps on and uses for a lookout stand.

The Outhouse Garden

The area around the outhouse, which is original dating to the late 1800's when the first house was built on this property, had been used as a garbage dump and fire pit by previous owners. My first task was a clean-up effort. As I was digging around the building, I uncovered the original stone walkway. I dug up and reset at least 7 large flat stones leading to the doorway. Even now, I still come across pieces of broken glass and empty beer cans when digging in this area.

hb tilled the sod between the outhouse and the split rail fence. I laid additional rocks for the pathway from the front to the back of the garden. Along the original pathway, I built a 2ft stone wall from rocks I either gathered from the creek or rescued from the construction. Then I planted perennials, bulbs and some annuals trying to fill in the garden. Next to the outhouse was the perfect spot for a crab apple tree and some vinca minor for ground cover.

The ground to the left of the outhouse was pretty good, I added a few bags of peat moss and everything took off. The ground to the right of the outhouse was not so good. I added peat moss, top soil and compost and the dirt is still mostly clay. This past summer's picture of the outhouse garden in bloom is on the garden page.

I have added a wisteria, a few butterfly bushes, a couple of small rhododendron, a miniature lilac and a regular lilac, lavender, day lilies, dutch irises, hb's rose garden, yacca plants transplanted from under the trees, ornamental grasses, lamb's ear, sweet peas and lots of daffodil bulbs for the spring.

Homer's Coop and Pen

Homer is the newest member of the Farmette family. His living quarters were already built before he arrived. I had a small bantam barred rock chicken for 4 years. Her name was Josie and she was the most amazing survivor. When she was about a year old, another chicken attacked her and damaged both of her feet. I isolated her and put first aid ointment on her hurt feet. About a month later, Josie's one foot healed and the other one fell off. Yes, fell off! She was my one-footed chicken. And Josie had the most wonderful personality. Sadly, she died the winter before Homer arrived.

Homer's house is basically the size of a dog house, with a small chicken wire coop surrounding it. The chicken wire goes underneath the coop to prevent anything from digging underneath. During the winter months, I line the inside with loose straw and pile bales of straw around the outside of the house.

Homer was litter trained so he picked a spot furthest away from his house to poop. Although this is a very good thing, the spot he selected was very hard to clean. So last week, I made a modification to his coop. At the end where he poops, I cut out the chicken wire and put an old drawer front with holes drilled in the 4 corners in place with cable ties. Now to clean out the area, all I need to do is cut two plastic cable ties, lift the drawer front then replace with two new ties. A perfect solution using materials on hand.